7 Luglio 2026 Venice & Lido. Adding a Little Spice

Having gotten my bearings on Lido the day I arrived, I woke up around 7 a.m. and headed out to walk the beach before the heat set in. Only a few others had the same idea, and we shared the shoreline with tractor crews smoothing the sand before the beach clubs set up their chairs and umbrellas. With all the trash I’ve seen abandoned on other beaches, I imagine a fair amount gets turned under daily.After walking a good stretch of the right side of the beach, I cut back through quiet neighborhood streets toward the hotel to take advantage of the complimentary breakfast — scrambled eggs, a rare treat on an Italian breakfast menu. With a full belly and dark clouds gathering over Venice, I figured it was time to hit the beach again. I took the long way along the lagoon, where taxi boats and ferries arrive and depart, and wound up at the opposite end of the beach from where I’d walked earlier. By late morning the beach was busy with sun‑bathers, and as afternoon approached the clouds rolled in, the surf filled with seagrass and questionable floating matter, and a trip to Venice suddenly felt like the better plan.After a shower I headed to the port and bought a 72‑hour water taxi and bus pass, which gave me the freedom to hop any public transport in the area for days. I caught the 5.1 express line to Venice and got off at the Celestia stop, close to where my next flat is located. Navigating the maze of alleyways and piazzas, I found the building easily, as well as a Bounce luggage storage spot, which will save me during the awkward gap between check‑out and check‑in.As dusk approached and the greeting shifted to Buonasera, the dark clouds finally rolled over the city. A mist of impending rain hung in the distance, and the pigeons and gulls gave their warning by fleeing through the crowds. When the storm hit, people scattered into restaurants, shops, under awnings, or onto the nearest boats. I followed suit and jumped a boat back to Lido.After nearly 30 days of travel, constant walking, carb‑loading, cheese consumption, and ever‑changing surroundings, my body finally tapped out. I crashed at the hotel before sunset. I felt guilty at first, with Venice right there at my fingertips, but the rain was violent and there would be plenty of time. Over the next few days I walked the front of the Grand Canal, the inner alleyways, and countless dead ends. The churches, art galleries, museums, and everyday sights of Venice are beautiful as well as endless. Before switching to my next flat, I hit the laundromat, writing postcards while my clothes spun. By then I had the boat routes down and saved steps by using the water taxi system to my advantage. I was confident enough to stop relying on Google Maps like everyone else and start navigating by landmarks.A sunset kayak trip through the canals was an incredible experience, and visiting Murano to see glassblowing up close was a highlight.Notable meals included more great mussels, spaghetti with fungi carbonara, stuffed mussels, and calamari fritte. Italian chefs won’t “de‑shell” mollusks or shellfish, so while delicious, there’s always the task of shucking tiny clams in linguini alle vongole. I was disappointed with a recent lobster pasta, a half lobster still in its shell, slathered in sauce, served with a wet nap and claw cracker. Tasty, but lesson learned.