Verona wasn’t a last‑minute addition to my itinerary, but it was chosen later in the planning and after visiting, I’m glad I made the choice. Italy, and Europe as a whole, overflow with history, yet Verona carries its own distinct character. The town somewhat revolves around the Verona Arena, one of the best‑preserved amphitheaters of its age, was completed in 30 AD and has been under continuous preservation since the 16th century.
My first full day was devoted to churches. The four major ones offer a reasonably priced multi‑pass, and each has its own personality: the Cathedral of Verona, the Basilica of San Zeno, the Basilica of Sant’Anastasia, and the Church of San Fermo. All beautiful and unique in their own time period.
After a day of spiritual and cultural immersion, dinner called. I found Café Tempo just around the corner from the Arena, blissfully away from the crowded sidewalk cafés and the swarm of Duran Duran fans waiting to enter the venue. If I would have known Duran Duran was performing I may have bought a ticket on a whim just to break the travel monotony but I had been more focused on missing the Lumineers the night before as I was in Venice. After a simple shrimp and fettuccine with pomodoro sauce, I managed to join the “tail‑gaters” outside the Arena and listened to the rest of the concert with a Dutch couple. We had a perfect vantage point through the large entrance that looks straight toward the stage. We were surprised there was no encore, neither demanded by the crowd nor hinted at by the band.
The next day brought more culture. I walked to the Archaeological Museum, centered around an amphitheater overlooking the Adige River. The collection blends excavated artifacts from the Neolithic and Copper Ages through the Bronze and Iron Ages. Afterward, I wandered along the river, stumbled into quiet neighborhoods and piazzas, and eventually surrendered to the heat. A quick plate of pasta on the main drag was all I needed before heading back for the night.
The following morning I visited an immersive Frida Kahlo experience, then Castelvecchio, which was built in the mid‑1300s as a defensive stronghold against the powerful Venetian families of the era. My final stop was the Torre dei Lamberti, whose nearly 300 steps offer panoramic views of the city. I chose the stairs over the elevator and halfway up realized I had passed the point of no return. My body was not amused. I stocked up on orange juice, oranges, and Powerade on the way home, cooked some pasta at the flat, and braced for what I knew was coming.
Travel caught up with me again, and the next day was spent nursing a sore throat and stuffy nose. Thankfully, my supplies did the job and I nearly knocked it out in a day. After resting, I spent my final day visiting a few more churches and attractions, then grabbed a focaccia pizza with mushrooms and artichokes before heading home through the gathering opera crowd. Within the hour, the sky opened up and drenched the city. I thought of all the poor folks trapped in the open‑air Arena, fighting their way through the tourist crowd and downpour. I was perfectly content with my decision to stay in and prepare for my travel day to Milan.
fscavullo 