Vietri, a village from a time gone by where plaster and mortar anchor in place the toil of local artisans. Here the time old structures were never replaced by ply-wood and dry-wall. The elder men hold court from the shade trees of the piazza while balconies echo the sound of Nonas exchanging the news of the day. The neighborhood dogs bark a competing dialect known only to them. Tuesday brings the return of the fish mongers with their open air markets of fresh octopus, squid and shrimp bedded on ice while the shellfish of the day is continuously showered with a light spritz as the new day heat slowly creeps in. The shops come alive as the ceramic plates & platers are carefully hung and display tables are put in place. Child-care is a content infant in a stroller perched just outside the shop door doted over by passersby’s. In the same respect one’s retirement years may be spent perched on a comfortable bench in the main shopping district greeting perspective clientele while offering wisdom to a younger generation. One is not woken by yard blowers and lawn movers but yet the gentle wisking of brooms and the cleansing spray from a hydrant.
Tourists slowly emerge and wander down the tight cobblestone streets searching for their first coffee and fresh baked pastry of the day. This is a time of slow awakening as the remnant’s of a cool night help stimulate the senses. A distant fog cloaks the far off mountain side and the casual buongiornos rise from a hamlet steeped in timeless tradition. This is when the smart visitor finds the spring tap to fill their bottles for the day rather than buying it. Soon the restaurant owners will patrol the perimeter of their patio dining area armed with a menu and a kind word in hopes of recruiting their newest clientele .
I initially wondered how a culture who ruled so much of the ancient world remained, what I saw as behind the advancements of modern times . I soon realized it was by choice. For Vietri Sul Mare is a hidden gem nestled in a landscape of coastal breezes and un-manicured landscapes. It is a living and breathing art museum where an alert and curious visitor can unlock the secrets of a time gone by.
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