My days in Vieste held little adventure. With the small town vibe, not counting all the hidden treasures scattered in the alley ways and road sides I pretty much hit a rhythm of morning coffee, sorry I mean “cafe”and a sweet. I especially enjoyed the bakery that filled the doughnut with the filling of your choice from jars with a hand-pumps. What a concept.
After a little browsing at the local shops and finding churches to pray the stations of the cross, which has become my Italian tradition, it was time to relax on the beach. While nonnas in some areas follow the tradition of making pasta in the family restaurant in the early morning or sitting out front greeting and perhaps judging guests the Nonna’s of Vieste head to the beach and congregate with their chairs in the sand against the shady wall that banks the piazza. They have spirited discussions, dance, argue and trade spots throughout the day so as to offer shade to the other Nonnas who are sitting in the sun facing the piazza.
Meanwhile the elder men are all up at the cafes carrying on in the same style of spirited discussions. Voices rise, hand gestures fly and laughs emanate from the sidewalks.
Besides watching the Nonnas our day at the beach was enhanced as the stage from the previous night was moved beachfront and even though scorching hot, the youth band practiced for their show that would take place layered that night. This gave the the local woman plenty of opportunities to dance with each-other and yell exuberant, “Bravos” at the end of each segment.
Returning from the beach it was time to shower and head out in search of my second meal. I found a restaurant just down from the previous night but the crowds had not discovered this alleyway yet. The mussels were plump and fresh, though the broth was oddly cloudy and missing the tomatoes it clearly needed. Somehow the mussels carried themselves. The orecchiette with cime di rapa that followed was unfortunately bland, but I rescued it with pepper and Parmesan. Dessert was a pistachio frozen mousse with cookie crumbs and chocolate drizzle, pretty, but still half‑frozen.
Heading back through the piazza the youth groups performance echoed throughout the beachfront. I ended the night just 10 feet from my flat watching the performance. There was no reason to retire early as the party had moved to my side of the block and there would be no quiet until the band finished playing.
The following day would include doing laundry as my time in Vieste was coming to an end. I bought some pasta and sauce at the grocery store and fixed my own dinner for the first time since arriving in Italy. Basic, inexpensive and quick. I popped down the road to finish my last night with Nutella gelato, organized my things and downloaded my exit strategy and next accommodation information.
Vieste was one of my favorite locations. It lacked the ancient structures the dramatic cliffs the sweeping coast but the laid back beach vibe and the friendly local culture made it unique and special on its own.
